Mount Horrocks Clare Valley Semillon

The cool 2011 season has done wonderful things for Mount Horrocks Semillon, making for an impressively chiselled style. Semillon doesn’t always respond well to full barrel fermentation, but here the buttered toast and roast nut characters imparted serve to balance the taut, primary, zesty lemon drive of this high-tensile season, pulling into a honed finish of chalky mineral structure and considerable persistence. $23 direct.