Sieur d’Arques Aimery Crémant de Limoux Grand Cuvée 1531

From ten paces, you’d swear this was prestige champagne. On closer inspection, it’s a stylish champagne substitute from the south of France, just the thing for everyday drinking. A blend of chardonnay, mauzac (I’ve never heard of it, either!) and chenin blanc, assembled with the same methode traditionnelle as champagne. Two years maturation gives an earthy complexity to elegant grapefruit, lemon zest and dried pear flavours. Best of all, it finishes refreshingly dry and surprisingly persistent. $14 at Dan’s.