This wine hasn’t yet hit the ground, but as soon as it appears on the web site, jump on it (cellar door only). It’s a new day at Oakridge, honing in on a new level of detail by segregating its revered estate chardonnay into four stunning single vineyard wines – impressive both philosophically and in the way the wines express themselves. This will stir some controversy, not because the much-adored estate chardonnay is no more, but because its replacements are so honed and taut. The Australian-chardonnay-has-gone-too-far-into-the-realm-of-restraint mafia will get into a huff over this, but the truth is that these wines accurately and effortlessly capture the personality of an uncharacteristically cool vintage. The legendary Lusatia Park is the standout, a wine of beautiful poise, delightful restraint and high-tensile precision. A steely acid backbone drives through the core like an ice shard, but it manages to maintain grace and purity, thanks to seamless fruit drive and persistence. The most Chablis-like expression of this distinguished vineyard yet.