Oakridge Local Vineyard Series Lusatia Park Vineyard Yarra Valley Chardonnay

This wine hasn’t yet hit the ground, but as soon as it appears on the web site, jump on it (cellar door only). It’s a new day at Oakridge, honing in on a new level of detail by segregating its revered estate chardonnay into four stunning single vineyard wines – impressive both philosophically and in the way the wines express themselves. This will stir some controversy, not because the much-adored estate chardonnay is no more, but because its replacements are so honed and taut. The Australian-chardonnay-has-gone-too-far-into-the-realm-of-restraint mafia will get into a huff over this, but the truth is that these wines accurately and effortlessly capture the personality of an uncharacteristically cool vintage. The legendary Lusatia Park is the standout, a wine of beautiful poise, delightful restraint and high-tensile precision. A steely acid backbone drives through the core like an ice shard, but it manages to maintain grace and purity, thanks to seamless fruit drive and persistence. The most Chablis-like expression of this distinguished vineyard yet.