Mike Aylward crafts some of the Mornington Peninsula’s most graceful pinot noirs. In a vintage where some makers pushed their wines to an edgy 14.5%, Ocean Eight retains a gloriously effortless 13% alcohol. Such delicacy opens up the airspace for every detail to hover with exacting precision: aromas of lifted rose petal, pink pepper and red cherries, flowing into flavours of wild strawberries that linger with haunting persistence. The texture is a delight, layered with fine, silky tannins, making this a beauty to behold now, and it will only improve over the coming years. $34 at Armadale Cellars.