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O’Leary Walker Polish Hill River Riesling

The deep-set slatey minerality of Polish Hill River snaps into sharp focus in the 2012 vintage, and the texture infused is the highlight one of the famous subregion’s most keenly priced rieslings. Its taut, honed backbone tames generously intense fruit with a core of lemon juice and crunchy granny smith apples and a riper wild side that hints at mandarins and stone fruits, ultimately settling into a well-honed demeanour. $18 at WineStar, No Frills Wine, WineBizz and The Glass.