The new chapter of Peglidis exemplifies the notion that drinkability and longevity need not be mutually exclusive. You will be delighted if you drink it today or in fifteen years. Aromas of the most precise kaffir lime zest, the crunchiest granny smith apples and lifted lemon blossom perfume open into nuances of mixed spice and baked apple. Generous, concentrated complexity meets an impeccably honed and restrained demeanour, with a subtle touch of residual sweetness creating a harmonious tension with an otherwise taut acid profile and pronounced chalk/mineral texture. Last year I preferred Peglidis to Churinga, this year it’s the other way, evidence of Kerri Thompson’s dexterity. $28 in quantity direct.