It’s a reflection of the skill of Lindsay McCall and his team that three of his pinots made the cut for my “best of the Mornington” list (the third due for release later this year), all three from seasons with more than their share of challenges. His Estate Pinot is one of the darkest and most robust on the Peninsula, with a full purple hue and an intense palate of exact black cherry definition, lingering long amidst brambles, forest floor, anise and dried herbs. It captures silky refinement in the midst of impressive concentration, with firm, drying tannins propelling its fruit long into the finish. $53 at Hunt For Wine.