Margaret is an enigma, one of the finest semillons in the country, pre-aged prior to release and sold for a fraction of its true worth. For such a wine to hail from some of the oldest semillon vines on the Barossa floor (some more than 80 years of age) is a paradox of the highest order. At six years of age it still glows with green tints, lively and crunchy with impressive intensity and persistence of lively lemon fruit, evolving into preserved lemon, lemon butter and toast. Line and length are unwavering, supported by beautifully poised acidity that will sustain it for a very long time yet. $25 at Liquorland Direct.