There is an ever-rising theme of restraint in Stonewell, and the cool January and February of 2008 reinforced this style, picked largely prior to the unforgettable heatwave in early March. The result is one of the great Stonewells of all time, with a tannin structure that is a revelation: superfine, almost mineral in its textural presence, yet with a grip and a control that promise great things in two decades time. There is immense concentration of black fruits, coal steam, liquorice, even a hint of Barossa metwurst, yet it carries with remarkable precision and immense control. $70 at Dan’s, My Cellars, Cracka, Canterbury Wines, No Frills Wines, Nillumbik, WineStar, Nicks, Aussie Wines and Wine List Australia.