Long have we awaited the dawning of another grand vintage to follow the legendary 1996 Pol. Now 2002 has arrived, and, my, has it been worth the wait! All the tension of this incredible vintage is on full show, epitomising both the inherent concentration and the scintillating structure of the season. The confidence of pinot noir takes the lead, providing grand red-fruited dimension to the supreme refinement of the Pol Roger house style. Almost a decade in the depths of cold cellars has built ever so subtle toasty complexity, which does nothing to trouble the exacting flow of taut citrus zest, lemon sherbet and yellow mirabelle plum fruit. Its textural presence is pronounced, with driving persistence of finely poised, mouth-embracing chalk minerality that rises and froths on the finish. $95 at Kemenys.