The blend of Sir Winston Churchill is a closely guarded secret. I ask Managing Director Laurent d’Harcourt every time we taste a new vintage. ‘I have not been drunk enough yet to tell you!’ he replied this year. I’ll keep working on it. Elusive details aside, Sir Winston is looking dignified and refined in 2000, transcending the soft immediacy of the season in an elegant and understated demeanour of tightly wound, super-fine lemon, grapefruit and white peach fruit of pristine focus. This is a cuvée that appreciates plenty of time in a large glass to unravel, and it’s just beginning to uncurl to the rhythm of 13 years of age, building subtlety of toasty, buttery complexity, propelled by attentive acid control and an undercurrent of soft, lingering chalk mineral texture. It’s making this transition with prowess and effortless grace, with a youthful vigour under that distinguished exterior. $185 at Kemenys.