Rippon is one of the original vineyards of Central Otago, and its site on the banks of Lake Wanaka must be the most spectacular place to grow grapes in the southern hemisphere. It’s hard to imagine that the wines of this estate could continue such a steep trajectory of refinement, even after some twenty-four years, but the proof lies in the beautifully engineered 2010 vintage. The spice-laden nature of this site is reinforced in whole cluster inclusion in the wild ferment, generating an enticing bouquet of mixed spice, black fruits, anise and pipe smoke. The focus throughout the palate remains resolutely on the purity of Central Otago pinot fruit, supported by outstanding texture of finely structured tannins and excellent line and length. $65 at Cracka.