Sélèque Cuvée Spéciale Premier Cru Extra Brut

With an extra year of lees age and another year of bottle age, this cuvée has blossomed since I last saw it. Youthful apple and pear fruit have matured to a more contemplative place of brioche, honey and mixed spice and its firm acidity and phenolic texture have pulled into a refined poise. A celebration of the vivacity and energy of the jubilant 2008 season, it retains impressive focus and definition for its age and its depth of reserves. $59 at French Wine Centre.