Stefano Lubiana Primavera Chardonnay

Even after more than twenty years at their spectacular estate, Steve and Monique Lubiana maintain an almost child-like excitement and attitude of playful experimentation that ensures that nothing remains status quo here. Primavera is their second label, but there’s nothing second rate here. Notes of gunflint and charcuterie intermingle magnificently with beautifully defined grapefruit and lemon zest, finishing long, textural and stunning. $26 at Trio Wine.