Stefano Lubiana Primavera Pinot Noir

“I look forward to every vintage with glee as a new opportunity to experiment,” Steve Lubiana told me. 2011 was a cool, grey season in southern Tassie, but it didn’t rain nearly as much as everywhere else, resulting in the cleanest fruit for a few years at Stefano. The wine delivers all the purity and definition of black cherry, blackberry and anise with notes of savoury herbs and brambles, underpinned by fine yet firm and silky tannins. $27 at My Wine Store.