Stefano Lubiana Vintage Brut

At almost a decade of age the lively crunch of lemon zest and pear is impressively youthful, well polished into a silky, soft style of well integrated acidity, invisible dosage and understated complexity of brioche, candied citrus rind and lemon butter. It finishes long and seamless, confirming an impressive release for Lubiana, with the energy to live for some years yet. A blend of 60% chardonnay and 40% pinot noir fermented in stainless steel tanks, with full malolactic fermentation, a light dosage of 6.7g/L, disgorged September 2013. $47 at Wine Box Warehouse.