Stonier Reserve Pinot Noir

Once upon a time, the oak regime at Stonier overpowered its flagships and left me hankering for its entry wines. It’s a brand new day at this hallowed Mornington estate, and Mike Symons has brought the barrels into line, letting pure red cherries, berries, plums and silky, textural tannins sing. $40 at WineStar, $44 at Dan’s.