Comtes de Champagne occupies a privileged position in the top ten sparkling wines in the world, and a sneak preview of the 2002 vintage prior to its October release confirms its ranking. And it goes further, proclaiming a remarkable consistency from vintage to vintage, like no other champagne, even at this mesospheric height. Adoring followers of Comtes 1998 and 2000 will feel very much at home with 2002. Comtes de Champagne tames the high-tensile and energetic paradox of this splendid vintage like no other, while upholding the essence of the season in tremendous concentration and bracing structure. Pristine purity of ripe, little, yellow plums and refined lemon blossom meet the deep, all-pervading minerality of Côte des Blancs chalk. The enduring perseverance of 2002 proclaims another breathtaking Comtes. $239 at Wineaway (2000).