Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs

Another arresting vintage of Comtes has landed and, unlike the three vintages that precede it, it’s ready to play right away. A warmer year has blessed it with layers of generous, rounded white fruits, but its core remains classic, inimitable Comtes: a revelation of intricately, epically spun minerality that bores to the very core of the finest chalkfields of the Côte des Blancs, blessing it with an all-embracing texture of silky softness, yet crystalline assertiveness. $263 at The Glass.