Te Whare Ra Riesling ‘D’

‘D’ is Te Whare Ra’s dry riesling from vines dating from the late seventies and early eighties (ancient by Marlborough standards). Impressively poised and immaculately clean, with a mid-palate generosity that makes for an enticingly approachable alternative to Australia’s more steely dry riesling style. It’s accented with precise granny smith apple, lemon zest and lime fruit, with a delicate air of lime blossom, coasting long and taut into a finish accented by well-defined acidity. $24 at Bottega Tasca.