Teusner Righteous Mataro

Who would have imagined that one of Kym Teusner’s most captivating mataros would emerge from the cool, wet 2011 season? This is a culmination of all the things I like most about this vintage. It’s impeccably fragrant on the bouquet and palate, laced with rose hip, rhubarb, tobacco, lively red berry fruits and rich, lingering high cocoa dark chocolate. Picked at just the right moment (no easy call in this vintage), pretty, bright vibrancy and classic, tangy 2011 acidity completely belie 15% alcohol. Everything is sewn together neatly with lacy, fine, silky tannins. $91 at International Fien Wines.