Ken Bray’s Hunter vineyard is one of the finest sites for single vineyard semillon in the world today. Period. While it has supplied many of the great winemakers of the Hunter, it’s taken the genius of Andrew Thomas to unveil its true pedigree. His Cellar Release Semillon has long been revered, but when the 2007 vintage is released in August, time will stop and heaven and earth will rejoice. Never before has this patch of dirt conjured such mouth-electrifying minerality, earth-shaking chalky structure or monumentally unrelenting line and persistence. At five years of age it’s an iridescent green, holding devastatingly pure lemon and lime fruit, with the most subtle nuances of roast nuts and molten butter. Minutes after it is swallowed it hovers, suspended, seemingly utterly defying the very passage of time itself.