Thomas Motel Block Shiraz

This is about as dark as Hunter shiraz gets, and then some – a Vader hue that could only be achieved in a dry-grown vineyard, yielding a miniscule 500kg of grapes per acre. A controlled generosity results, at first coiled and focused, then ramping up to impressive concentration of black plum skins, black cherries, liquorice, black pastilles and a jet of coal steam. Such intensity is extremely well handled for its medium-bodied frame, boasting beautifully integrated oak and a fine, seamless core of tannin support. $44 at Boccaccio.