Thousand Candles

I liked Thousand Candle’s controversial inaugural 2011 on release, I like it more today, and I like its successor more again. All the exoticism of 2011 has returned for an encore in 2012, set in a much more familiar frame of Yarra Valley pinot noir (70%), with shiraz playing a support role (25%) and again an unexpected touch of sauvignon blanc (5%). Fifty percent whole bunch lays exotic spice over a core of violet perfume, the black pepper of shiraz and pristine red cherries of pinot noir. It’s beautifully textured, fine, gravelly, intricate and enduring. $96 at United Cellars.