Wine Taste is the first place you’ll read about new release wines, but occasionally I make purposeful exceptions. Once released in June, this wine sells so fast that it’s now released in April. I first tasted it in July but I’ve held off on the announcement because only now is it ready to go. Margaret River is famed for its powerful chardonnay style, but to capture a wine with fruit concentration, energised by high tensile acidity and refreshingly low alcohol – herein lies the true challenge. Virginia Willcock has met the brief resoundingly, and at an everyday price. Layers of complexity of fig, white peach and grapefruit on the bouquet, with nuances of biscuits and roast cashew nuts. It’s brilliantly honed, thanks to taut acidity that pulls it in tight and draws out the finish long and tangy. $20 at Purvis Cellars, Nicks and The Glass.