I once believed that a lighter-bodied, red fruits expression was a regional signature of Marlborough pinot noir, but I have a rising feeling that this is simply a consequence of young vines and inexperience with the variety. As Marlborough comes of age, its pinots are becoming deeper, darker and more harmonious, and Villa Maria exemplifies this style. On the bouquet, excellent expression of violet perfume, blackberries and black cherries. The palate brings impressive black fruits definition and finely honed focus of supple, fine, textural tannins. Acidity carries beautifully on a tangy finish, propelling black cherry fruits long and linear. A beautifully complete Marlborough pinot. $60 at Corkscrew Cellars.