There is an impeccably defined focus to this wine that not only looks more restrained than many from this vintage, but it also appears exceptionally youthful as one of Margaret River’s later released flagships. A brilliant bouquet of crunchy blackcurrants, graphite, tobacco and cedar introduces an impeccably and confidently structured palate, scaffolded around a rigid chassis of firm tannins. There’s plenty of oak, but the fruit triumphs in the end, and calls for a very long time to find its balance. This traveller has quite a voyage before it. $48 at North Sydney Cellars.