There is no surprise that Kerri Thompson occupies a privileged position among a handful of the most talented winemakers in the Clare today. The surprise comes in that she has secured her reputation with wine styles hitherto unheard of in these parts. In this pursuit, Churinga Riesling 2012 is a milestone wine. Not only because it is the finest riesling she has extracted from this vineyard but because it is a revelation of mineral expression that encapsulates Watervale bedrock. A deeply penetrating chalk field of minerality fills the mouth and draws it long into the finish. It’s a compelling juxtaposition between brilliantly honed restraint and profound complexity of lemon blossom, granny smith apple and notes of frangipane and exotic spice. Pulling into a tense tail of laser-aligned acidity, it will take some years for its true glory to fully unravel. Make sure you’re there when it does. $28 in quantity direct.