There are big changes at hand at Gosset (when I visited it was quite a construction zone), but the consistent standard of this wine remains undeviating. Skip the entry Brut Excellence (it isn’t) and trade up to this fat bottle with its poised lemon zest, nougat and gentle minerality. $95 at Dan’s.
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Maurice is back on form in the great 09 vintage, showcasing the fruit of the oldest vines of the most famous historic vineyard of the Hunter in all of their black plum and cherry glory. Tightly wound, poised and driven by the acid backbone and restraint of this long-ageing season. $55 at Kemeny’s.
readA mainstay of Stonier Reserve Pinot, the old vines of the Lyncroft vineyard have finally been given wings to fly solo. A dramatic performance of exotic spice and pot pourri stunts, red cherry and plum fruit swoops and turns, pulling into a straight line of persistent drive and very fine, silky tannins. It’s flying so […]
readA new star has ascended in the West. Cliff Royle has glowed for every one of the 14 vintages he’s been in Margaret River but his latest creation is about to draw the attention of a supernova. It’s proof that MR chard doesn’t need high alcohol, rich fruit, malolactic fermentation or buckets of new oak […]
readA subregional focus makes perfect sense in Margaret River, and Cliff Royle has embraced it in a new Sub Regional Series that’s about to create quite a stir. In the far south, the cool Karridale subregion produces enticing granny smith apple, gooseberry, nashi pear and grapefruit flavours at restrained alcohol levels. Wild ferment and old […]
readA wine can communicate nothing more profound than the personality of its soil and the very finest Adelaide Hills shiraz always has a nuance that reminds me of rain on granite. Here it melds seamlessly with pepper, anise, sour plums and fine-ground, textural tannins. $27.50 at simplywines.net.au.
readYering’s famous SV is about to get an exciting facelift (and price hike) so don’t miss the last chance to partake of its opulent liquorice, sarsaparilla, cola and spice joy while it’s still up for grabs for $20 (WineStar). Great fruit presence lingers amid finely structured tannins on a long finish. $21 at Dan’s.
readOn exposed granite, in direct line of sight of Mount Kosciuszko, it’s no wonder this riesling retains bonechilling acidity of champagne proportions. Just as well it’s perfectly balanced by medium sweetness, delightfully poised lemon and lime blossom and crabapple fruit. Stunning.
readIt’s springtime, cue the rosé! What a joy to find a Rhôney Rosé that’s still clean, fresh and frisky a year after it was deported! Grenache, shiraz and cinsault unite in a pale-coloured and savoury-styled wine with watermelon and guava fruit and a lovely, dry, textural finish that lingers on and on.
readThe Eight Uncles have rocked up, but don’t expect a casual affair because they mean serious business. The new vintage is loaded with Barossa joy: firm dark plums, blackberries, blueberries, dark chocolate oak and finely textured tannins. Let it chill out for at least a year or two. $15 at 1st Choice.
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