Gilles Dumangin’s refined, classy and elegant rosé reflects the precision of his approach to all he does. No surprise this cuvée now represents 50% of his production. The 2009 base is built on almost 50% chardonnay, and a little more pinot meunier red wine than usual (the colour was very light in 2008). Restrained, tight […]
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Based in the thundering Côte des Blancs grand cru of Cramant, Diebolt-Vallois’ grandeur is declared first and foremost in its blanc de blancs cuvées. There is, in fact, no Cramant fruit in this blend. It’s built instead around the elegant premier cru of Cuis, the powerful grand cru of Cramant, and Épernay vineyards very close […]
readThe little Épernay house of Alfred Gratien ferments every parcel in small, old oak barrels, blocking malolactic fermentation to preserve fruit integrity and freshness. This style is articulated in its current cuvées nowhere more elegantly than in the two rosés of the house. Precise and delicate red cherries, raspberries and strawberries unite in a creamy, […]
readAs in every one of its cuvées, Billecart creates precision through cold settling prior to fermentation, building texture and volume later by a little bâtonnage (lees stirring) in tank. Based on the 2009 vintage and a 50% share of Avize fruit, this is a honed and focused style of impeccable focus, energy and tension. It […]
readJean-Pierre Vazart describes the 2008 harvest as the 1996 vintage with balance. That is, about as good as it gets in Champagne. His Blanc de Blancs encapsulates the season with laser-precision, great energy and thrust, a vector of pure citrus and apple of remarkable determination. Impeccable purity and delicacy of lemon bossom and granny smith […]
readA blend of six vineyards, 50% Avize, 25% Cramant and 25% Le Mesnil, selected for their ripeness, which is pushed as far as possible to emphasise creaminess. This negates the need for both chaptalisation and malolactic fermentation. This style works better in 2008 than any vintage I can remember. This vintage is razor blade; a […]
readInitiale is the most accessible and most affordable cuvée of Anselme Selosse’s inherently inaccessible and unaffordable range of cult grower champagnes. It represents more than two-thirds of his production and can be notoriously inconsistent, but this bottle purchased at his restaurant was stunning. Grand complexity is painted in broad brushstrokes of fig, marmalade, preserved lemon, […]
readStrangely, only made in half bottles and released earlier than usual, though the house couldn’t tell me why. Nonetheless, it’s even more magnificent now than it was on release, with delightfully complexity and depth of burnt butter, fig, ginger nut biscuits, dried peach and honey. It admirably upholds a refined focus, finely chalk mineral mouth […]
readMy opinions regarding 2003 champagne prestige cuvées that should never have been released are well known, so it was not without due apprehension that I approached Krug 2003 recently. Yes, this is a child of a hot and challenging vintage, yes it has softer acidity, more dry extract and more phenolic structure (true to the […]
readEverything about Salon is geared toward long-ageing potential: Only the first pressing is used, fermented cold in stainless steel tanks, and malolactic fermentation is completely blocked. The most definitive and legendary expression of champagne’s most confident, most commanding and arguably most age-worthy Côte des Blancs grand cru, Salon 2002 has been long anticipated. I first […]
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