Having achieved that magic threshold of 12-13 years of age, Aramis’ shiraz vines sang in the great 2010 vintage. There’s a density of black liquorice, fragrant blackberries and plums, underscored by the dark chocolate of French oak. Excellent poise and structure is created by firm, fine tannins of impressive texture and length. $22 at Wine […]
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Earlier this year I assembled a tasting of more than 100 New Zealand pinots not exhibited at any of New Zealand’s official tastings around the world, and Bannock Brae was one of the best. Planted in 1998 and 1999, the vines of this single vineyard estate reached the magic turning point of 12 years of […]
readMargaret is an enigma, one of the finest semillons in the country, pre-aged prior to release and sold for a fraction of its true worth. For such a wine to hail from some of the oldest semillon vines on the Barossa floor (some more than 80 years of age) is a paradox of the highest […]
readMcLaren Vale escaped some of the rain that plagued south-eastern Australia in 2011 and its best expressions of shiraz are spicy, textural and elegant. Shottesbrook’s single vineyard at an altitude of 200m in Blewitt Springs is definitive of the style of the region in this unusual season. A pristine nose of lifted rose petals, black […]
readMorris’ fortifieds over-deliver in every way: price, age and taste. With an incredible average age of more than twenty years, this should be labelled “rare” rather than “grand” on the official classification, and it should be more expensive, too. It’s taut, dry and intensely nutty, with fresh acidity, hazelnut character and a softly salty finish. […]
readI am continually surprised by the leap in Central Otago pinot noir when the vines reach twelve years of age. There is no question that Quartz Reef”s 2010s are its finest pinots yet. In digging deeper, I discovered that Rudi Bauer planted his vines in Bendigo in 1998. The magic number twelve works its marvels […]
readChambers’ fortifieds don’t fit neatly into the Rutherglen classification, and this blend is older than other Classics. Its considerable aged material is reflected in a complex and savoury style of olives, plum pudding, bitter marmalade, sweet fig paste, dark chocolate and orange liqueur. A topaque of outstanding persistence and balance. A Grand by any comparison. […]
read“A bloody terrible vintage, with lots of rain, but you can’t make bad chardonnay off this vineyard!” says maker Rod Kempe. The Hunter’s best chardonnay shines even in this season, with a lovely profile of understated white peach, white nectarine, lemon and grapefruit. Lovely complexity of spicy apricot, baked peach, hints of nutmeg and clove […]
readLance Redgwell is a fast ascending star of Martinborough and his 2011s are his finest reds yet. From 25-30 year old vines, fermented with 15 percent whole bunches, this is a wine that collides gorgeous exotic spice with black cherry intensity. Its black fruit and violet definition are nothing short of astounding, and its tannins […]
readMcLaren Vale got out of jail in the tough, wet 2011 season compared with much of south-eastern Australia, making an elegant, spicy shiraz style. These are not blockbusters, nor will they be long-lived, but there is appeal in the wines of those who sorted their fruit stringently. Chapel Hill’s single Road Block vineyard has yielded […]
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