This is a chardonnay that boldly and confidently leads with texture and winemaking complexity ahead of pure fruit expression. With air and time, the fruit is given opportunity to shine. And shine it does, with reflections of apple, pear and grapefruit, focused and linear, streaming through a long, textural finish. $41 at Dan’s.
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After a morning at De Bortoli last week I’m stoked about what new releases next year will bring, and even the challenging 2011 vintage is full of surprises. The 2010s are on form, and Emu epitomises the diverse expression of De Bortoli’s vineyard sites. Not far from the De Bortoli estate, the soils here make […]
readI have admired its wines for years, but visited Wantirna for the first time just last week and discovered an immaculately tended vineyard on a glorious site in an unusual location that can best be described as Melbourne suburbia, mid-way between the Yarra and the Mornington. Amelia was the star, with sensational purity and poise […]
readA rosé that really does smell and taste like roses, from the delightfully named Champagne village of Chigny-les-Roses! Delicate and restrained perfume of just-picked strawberries, with a creamy bead and soft minerality melding seamlessly with subtle dosage. There is not a molecule out of place, such is its impeccable balance and pure refinement.
readIn its thirtieth vintage, Ata Rangi Pinot Noir is a classic rather than a blockbuster. This cool, early season has coaxed out bright, herbal purity. Red cherries, pink peppercorns, fresh rose petals and nuances of bouquet garni play over a silky tannin structure of firm texture, wonderfully integrated already but with the energy and endurance […]
readLehmann’s first ever straight quaffing sauvignon has swooped in and outdone every one of his entry wines this year (yes, even riesling!). Besides the legendary Mike Press, this must be the cheapest sauv in the Hills. Rarely does true varietal and regional character come with such definition under $10. Fresh apple and pear fruit, lime […]
readA day with Bill Downie last week unveiled the most groundbreaking new venture in Australian wine this year, and you’ll hear all about it as soon as the wine hits the ground next year. In the meantime, Bill Downie and Jason Seale have conjured the perfect antipasto partner. Capturing the cool, savoury restraint of King […]
readBlimey. Genuine Coonawarra terra rossa single vineyard cabernet with nigh-on a decade of glorious bottle age at a magical sub-$20 price. The cork says “Ladbroke Grove” which means it’s worth at least $10 more than this. It’s maturing slowly and steadily, layered with roast capsicum, game, dried thyme, cedar, wood smoke and tobacco. It’s primed […]
readA bargain cellaring special, this is a strong vintage for Knappstein, with great definition of black plum and black pepper. A firmly structured backbone of fine, textural tannins and sensitively handled oak ensure that it will live confidently for a decade and beyond. $15 at Gray’s Online.
readDistinctive and varietal viognier is rare at this price, and there is no finer rendition sub-$15 this year. There’s loads of viognier character here for $14, packed with apricots, cream pie, apricot kernel and orange. It’s juicy, textural, structured and friendly.
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