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The talented Liz Jackson is responsible for one of the semillons of the vintage – again. It is elevated above the pack thanks to a palate that ripples with fine minerality. Marksman accuracy of kaffir lime, anise and granny smith apples. Taut, pristine, fresh, energetic, perfumed. Pure magnificence!

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Winemaker extraordinaire Jim Chatto bottled this new label separately at the last minute because it looked so good he just couldn’t resist. Too right! Laser-beam linearity, piercing purity and linear precision of kaffir lime, anise and guava. A textural finish of great acid cut. Long-distance champion.

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The Braemore vineyard is Hunter turf of grand cru proportions, producing remarkable acidity, line & length. In 2011 its chalky minerality has a soft approachability, propelling wonderfully concentrated lime, granny smith, anise and green pepper fruit. Profound evenness from start to long finish.

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Proof that H&H was no one hit wonder when its first release took out the Hunter Wine Show last year. The secret is 1979 vines in the epic Drayton’s vineyard, infusing the wine with great concentration of granny smith apple, lime and peppermint. A line of taut acidity and linear persistence.

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The entry level First Creek Semillon, but you’d never pick it from the name or the wine. Beautifully fragrant bouquet of lemon blossom, kaffir lime, granny smith apple and pepper. Pure, cut palate of taut citrus, granny smith apple skin and finely textured minerality. Coiled-up energy. Patience.

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Monumental single vineyard semillon, piercingly pure, wonderfully linear and unrelentingly seamless – all at a bargain price. Lime juice, kaffir lime, anise, citrus-driven, with great fruit concentration, persistence and drive. Beautiful!

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The original Lindemans Sunshine Vineyard is now in capable Scarborough hands but there certainly wasn’t too much sunshine in the 2011 rendition. It’s a cool, poised style, shot with pure kaffir lime, green capsicum and granny smith apples. Tight, upright, linear and defined by a precise acid profile.

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I never imagined off-dry Hunter sem would work, but the inimitable Andrew ‘Thommo’ Thomas changed that. The key? Wonderful poise, acid definition and fine minerality captured through early harvesting, underlining pretty, fine lime, lemon, red apple and pear fruit. Sweetness is merely supportive.

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O.C. is for Oaky Creek (not Orange County!), the original source of this more generously proportioned style. It’s now from superior, older vines in the Drayton’s vineyard, but why change the name of a good thing? Great concentration of lime, green and red apples; rounded but poised and precise.

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Tower Estate rises to levels of perfume hitherto unknown in 2011 Hunter semillon: lilies, lime blossom, granny smith apples, guava and even musk. Tremendous fruit power, loaded with taut citrus and a backbone of fine minerality. Enjoy its primary innocence now, and it has the energy to go the distance.

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