This label is the bargain cellaring special of the decade. I still have 05s in my cellar and they’re not ready yet. The brand new release is as coiled-up, restrained and structured as any young MPWAHCS I’ve tasted, screaming out for a decade to reveal the class of characteristic, cool cabernet.
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A generous nebbiolo that’s ready to go, holding 14.5% alcohol confidently, thanks to acidity that keeps it lively, never deviating from medium-bodied aspirations. All the usual suspects of liquorice, black plum, rose petal and anise fruit are here, while velvety, silky tannins keep it honed on the end.
readL-B is one of the most fanatical organic growers in Vertus. The chardonnay-predominant Tradition blend captures the succulent, rounded fruit of the village, contrasting with linear minerality and taut citrus backbone. Assembled with signature Larmandier precision. $75 at WineStar, $76 at Dan’s.
readWith vines celebrating their 30th birthday, Freycinet’s picturesque vineyard is one of Tassie’s finest. Its purity and personality are intoxicating in 09, alive with white pepper, rose petal, violet and black cherry, fruit laced together with firm, fine, silky tannins & vibrant, southern acidity. $58 at Dan’s.
readA Marlborough chardonnay of outstanding definition and taut, honed acid backbone – now that’s something we don’t see often enough! Great concentration of nectarine, white peach, lemon zest and grapefruit, with complexing hints of figs and charcuterie. $29 at Dan’s, $30 at WineStar.
readIs this the finest CHMVCS yet? My word it is! Winemaker rockstar Michael Fragos has a soft spot for the noble grape and his greatest hit has just topped the charts. More floral, vibrant, poised, pure and structured than ever. Epic longevity. Coonawarra and Margaret River, look out! $25 at WineStar.
readBrilliantly crafted blend from an estate now perched on a very high branch of the lofty MR tree. Fruit from the cooler south of the region and a touch of barrel infuse remarkable restraint and calm, effortless, gliding persistence. Stunning value at $20 at WineStar, $21 at Dan’s, $22 at Vintage Cellars.
readA brand new wine slotting between Yering’s Little and it’s Estate Chardonnays. The focus here is on middle and Upper Yarra fruit, hand picked with one-fifth barrel fermented in new oak. The result is a finely crafted grapefruit, white peach and lemon blossom style with a touch of toasty oak on the finish.
readIn perfectly contrasting style to De Bortoli’s textural La Bohème, here’s an energetic gris that’s all about aromatics. Fresh pear fruit, poised lemon zest, mineral structure and a driving, lingering finish fleshed out with some fruit sweetness.
readAct 3 first opened last year, wowing audiences with textural restraint – it was going to be a hard act to follow. It’s second season has just opened, and what a show of exuberant florals, poached peach, cloves and perfectly gauged phenolics! An Upper Yarra core and barrel ferment keep it under control.
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