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2000 ranks with 1994 and 2007 as one of the Douro’s greatest vintages in recent decades, and Warre’s boasts a balance, refinement and seamlessness that rank it ahead of 1994 in my tastings. There is tremendous complexity here of exotic spice, dark chocolate, sarsaparilla, even the lingering primary fruits of strawberry and fig. Its persistence […]

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Always a reliable grab from the bottom chardonnay shelf, Hanwood is built around a core of two-thirds Riverina fruit, with its characteristic fleshy peach and rockmelon flavours. It’s the remaining third that’s really exciting. From eleven regions across four states, including a respectable 10% Tumbarumba, controlling the finish and keeping it crunchy and grapefruit-accented. Softly […]

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Laurent Delaunay visited me from the south of France recently, flying the flag for an exciting new range of wines (more on these in the coming weeks). His entry cabernet took my fancy, reflecting a strong vintage in this part of the world. The result is unashamedly medium-bodied and refreshing, an impressively textural cabernet of […]

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Carefully balanced bubbles at a bargain price, capturing citrus zest and wild honey, finishing crisp, dry and refreshing, with a finely mineral note. An appealing quaffer from cool climate Victoria pinot noir and chardonnay. $12 at Fassina.

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At three years of age, the Grandstand is ready to perform. An appealingly medium-bodied Western Australian blend showcasing primary black plum and blueberry fruit, notes of black pepper and liquorice, supported by finely textured tannins.

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2012 is a season that captured both refined definition and fruit ripeness, making for sensational value in this entry Clare riesling. Its bouquet is particularly fragrant, singing with lemon and lime blossom and granny smith apple definition. A gloriously fresh palate is particularly tightly focused, carrying Watervale’s signature chalky mineral texture. $17 at Jim’s Cellars […]

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Even Balnaves baby blend carries its house style of structure and longevity. In the generous and appealing 2010 vintage, it captures impressive fruit definition, lifted fragrance and well-textured, firm, fine tannins. Merlot-dominant this year, it carries layers of crunchy mulberries, ripe blackcurrants and even notes of pepper. $18 at WineStar.

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This is a sumptuous and succulent McLaren Vale shiraz that presents an enticing offering of immaculate black fruits. The bouquet sings of black plums, juicy blackberries and a lift of perfumed violets, throwing to a gorgeously fruit-focused palate that lingers long and supple, supported by soft, fine-grained tannins. It seems the days of Geoff Merrill’s […]

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A miniscule production of just fifty cases mark a Wirra Wirra flagship of impressive black fruit profile, where plums and blackberries meet liquorice and dark chocolate. Poise and concentration unite as great intensity of black fruits linger long through a finish supported by very finely structured tannins.

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There’s an alluring fruit focus to this tiny volume newcomer to Scarce Earth. Blackberry compote and mixed spice carry impressive fruit concentration through a long and finely structured palate. Seasoned oak lends structural support without interrupting fruit expression, which lingers supple and primary amid soft, fine tannins, making for an easy and early drinking style.

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