There is an inherent subtlety and restraint here, but at the same time glorious complexity, without lacking anything in concentration or presence. Such is its sophistication and harmony that nothing leaps out of the glass. Instead, a gentle, caressing presence of white peach and preserved lemon, with complex nuances of nutmeg, cinnamon, toast, even anise. […]

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Les Chétillons is the Le Montrachet of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, one of the finest sites for sparkling winegrowing in Champagne, indeed, anywhere on earth. This is one of the most minerally expressive wines I have ever tasted in Champagne. It’s tremendously full-bodied, powerful and concentrated with pure lemon fruit, orange zest, stonefruits, cloves and cinnamon and […]

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Champagne’s finest season of the past decade has given birth to a remarkable LGA. The strength of pinot noir in 2002 is offset by a higher proportion of chardonnay than usual (40%). As always, the two varieties are sourced exclusively from Bollinger vineyards, fermented entirely in old barrels, aged on lees for eight years and […]

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One of the most anticipated releases of the year, Oenothèque 1996 is not only one of the greatest Dom Pérignons of all, not only among the handful of the finest champagnes on the shelves this year but, more than this, it absolutely, finally and resoundingly answers the question on critics’ and connoisseurs’ lips for the […]

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One of WA’s most reliable bargain blends is in fine form in this great vintage, bouncing with crunchy red- and blackcurrants and capsicum. It’s varietal and vibrant, with lingering fruits amid finely structured tannins and supportive dark chocolate oak.

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Kym Teusner is a master of grenache, mataro and shiraz, and he captures the allure of all three in this gorgeous rosé. The cool 2011 season has coaxed out the spicy side of Barossa rosé, lacing it with red pepper, greengage plums and watermelon, finishing almost dry.

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West Cape Howe’s old riesling vines tap into impressive Mount Barker minerality, infusing this wine with a fine, chalky texture that’s rarely seen under $20. A zesty lemon and lime style with excellent poise and a promising medium-term future in the cellar.

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I caught up with Kym Teusner in the Barossa last week and he showed me a sneak preview of some exciting new ventures. More on these soon, but in the meantime, his existing pursuits have never shown finer form and 2010 is a sensational vintage for The Independent, more juicy, vibrant and savoury-edged than ever.

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Cool climate pinot gris from established vineyards is unusual at this price, which is one reason why this wine shines like a beacon in my tastings every vintage. It’s as crunchy and zesty as ever this year, with classic varietal pear fruit and the lemon freshness of the heights of the King Valley.

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A beautifully textured and poised WA shiraz, reflecting the cool and restrained personality of the southerly 2009 season. Crunchy black pepper, plum skin and blackberry fruit are lifted by the aromatic perfume of a touch of viognier. Fine, firm, mineral tannins fill out a persistent finish.

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