Superman chard. Clark Kent personality of exuberant, quaffing, ripe white peach, honeydew, pink grapefruit and guava. Superman talents of honed, taut, single vineyard unwooded chardonnay of high altitude nerves. A multitalented superhero that will confidently leap all manner of cuisines. $11 at www.mikepresswines.com.au
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Volnay is distinctive for its dried herb and pepper flavours, ironstone complexity and firm, coiled-up, gravel-like tannins. This is no exception, but here there is outstanding red cherry fruit presence, fine-wound acidity and well-gauged Austrian oak, allowing its fruit to speak in soft but articulate tones.
readEmmanuel and Charles-Henry Fourny craft wines of great purity from their old, organic vines in the premier cru village of Vertus at the southern end of Champagne’s Cote des Blancs. Beach-fresh, linear and very fine, with white peach, crunchy apple, taut lemon fruit and salty minerality.
readLovedale is among the world’s finest single vineyard semillons, and the brilliant 05 vintage is just beginning to grow nuances of toasty complexity. Primary citrus zest and white peach remain, but the signature minerality, undeviating line and lingering length of this vineyard are the real features.
readVoyager is legendary in wine circles as a lifetime member of Margaret River’s A-League at a fraction of the price of the rest. Its flagship has hit new dimensions of refined poise, a cool expression of this epic vintage, loaded with textbook tobacco, leaf, tomato and red- and blackcurrants. Go long.
readA refreshing new take on Grey Label’s thumping proportions, thanks to the toning influence of both the Limestone Coast and a touch of cabernet. Majority Robe fruit (next door to Coonawarra), lending a softening touch of red berries and spice to its characteristic deep, brooding, gamey stature.
readThere’s now a twist to one of Australia’s most reliable sweet rieslings, with the cool 11 season lending a spicier and more peppery edge than ever. There’s a hint of greengage plum and preserved lemon to its familiar fleshy peach, fig and pear fruit and unctuous, honeyed finish. Enticingly atypical.
readGreat value in the hierarchy of Hunter shiraz, loaded with the kind of fruit concentration and precision usually reserved for its seniors. Layered with black pepper and plum, supported by finely structured tannins and a plum skin texture, with a lingering finish of persistent black cherry fruit.
readNo short sprinter, this is a marathon runner that always stands out for its searingly structured acidity and fruit profile to go the distance. Beautifully clean and precise, it’s accented with lemon and lime, this year with a touch of red apple richness that gives it some immediacy, but it’s in no hurry.
readBest’s is on such a roll that it’s entry cabernet has just lapped its shiraz! An unashamedly restrained, honed, coiled-up and structured cabernet, in the traditional, savoury style, the kind that gets overlooked in wine shows until I bang a gold medal score on it! Give it time to grow into something special.
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