When you’re in the Hunter, don’t mention the war. Best wine of the Sydney show this year – Barossa Semillon, and it’s $25 at Kemeny’s this week! Rapier-tight, mineral, with white-knuckle adrenaline on every corner, this is a semillon on two wheels and it’s headed straight for the horizon. Hang on.
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It is preposterous that New Zealand’s finest red may not be a pinot; inconceivable that it could eclipse every Euro, Aussie and everywhere-else red so far this year. Such are the contradictions of La Collina. Hawke’s Bay syrah with pepper, graphite, coal, flint, iron filings and the textural structure of dreams.
readIt should be S.G. Pannell. No one in Australia does grenache better than Stephen Pannell. His solo rendition is from ancient McLaren Vale dry grown bush vines, which basked in the 09 season, producing gorgeous violet perfume and red berry compote fruit, laced together with masterfully textured tannins.
readSplash it around, hide the bot, stand back and watch the merriment! A cleanskin killer crafted using the kind of tricks you only hear about in tiny boutiques: wild yeast ferment, skin phenolics and cool, high altitude fruit to tone its Riverland base. Never mind the technicals, it’s textural, luscious and creamy.
readWouldn’t touch it in a pink fit? I’ve converted many a red-blooded bloke to the wonderful world of pink fizz with this juice. But that’s hardly fair, because Taché (‘stained’) is hardly pink at all. Barely a faint salmon hue, with flavours of subtle strawberry hull (the white bit that joins to the stem). $17 […]
readThe contrast here is absolutely captivating. Utter finesse and poise, crunchy lemon zest and hints of fig and pear with ultra-low alcohol for Margaret River. At the same time, mesmerising complexity of cashew nut French oak and leesy, barrel ferment complexity. You’ll need a second glass to figure it out. $30@Dan’s.
readLine up every single vineyard, small maker pinot under $15 and pick the gorgeous one that tastes like pinot. Trick question. There are no others! That’s reason enough to get on to Mike right away to get this into your cellar. It will age for a few years, too.
readIf you asked the mirror who’s the fairest pinot maker in the land, it’s got to be Billy. His 2010 trilogy is about to hit the ground and you want them all. My favourite changed every time I came back to them over three days, but the Yarra won out. Delicate and lively with precise […]
readThere’s a perfumed, floral lift to Lyndoch shiraz in the far south of the Barossa, and Wayne Dutschke bottles it better than anyone. GHR is the result of years of eyeing off his neighbour’s fruit! The 08 is his blackest and deepest yet, seething with blackberries, blueberries, plums and liquorice. Patience.
readKrug is the epitome of luxe, grandeur and decadence, with an other-worldliness and an amplitude as lofty as its mesospheric price. GC is definitive Krug, exotically rich, extravagantly complex and thunderingly expansive. It’s every bit as enchanting as its legendary reputation anticipates. $230 at 1st Choice.
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