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The grand chardonnay makeover has come to sub-$20 land and, my goodness, has it arrived in style! Gorgeously restrained, rippling with mountain river pebble minerality and glistening with lemon and lime zest, Next of Kin is as pristine as Margy Chardy gets at this price.

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Henschke may not be known for its Adelaide Hills Pinot but that’s all about to change. There’s a newfound delicacy, a seamless finesse and a gentle sensitivity to the 09, captured in its perfumed rose petal bouquet, gentle red cherry palate and fine, supportive tannin texture.

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ILR plays front row for the A-team of Hunter semillon and 2005 is equal with its most successful seasons ever. Pristine semillon of the highest order, still a youthful, verdant green, ricocheting with the purest lemon, lime and lemongrass and a faint hint of roast nut maturity. It’ll keep kicking goals for decades.

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Leonay is the wine of the vintage of the early release Eden Valley rieslings! Achingly pure perfume of lemon blossom and lily, and a drop-dead-gorgeous finish of river pebble minerality. It’s a thing of profound purity and mesmerising beauty and it will leave you transfixed. $30 at Dan Murphy’s.

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The Peregrine has flown to a new altitude in 09! There’s loads of glossy Central Otago joy here, black cherries and sweet berry compote, edged with finely textured tannins and subtle supportive oak. The finish is longer than a five day weekend (bring it on!). $38 at Vintage Cellars.

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The finest Clare shiraz can do power and density with perfume and control like nothing else. Tim Adams is among the best value labels in the land and Aberfeldy is his uptown rendition. Remarkable complexity of mixed spice and layered black fruits; astonishing texture, persistence and energy.

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Black Label is back on form after THAT vineyard makeover with chainsaws a decade ago! For Coonawarra cabernet, this is exact: crunchy blackcurrants, fresh liquorice sticks, balanced oak, fine acidity, seamless tannins. It’s got more than a decade of Easters left in it yet! $20 at 1st Choice & Liquorland.

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Giddy up! Yarra Valley cabernet reaches new altitudes of refinement, varietal precision, seamless balance and sheer class! Glorious fragrance of violets and every cabernet descriptor you can name. Beautifully textured tannins weave deep through waves of blackcurrant fruit and finely tuned oak.

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It’s about time I mentioned the Elefante in the room. I can’t believe this is possible: A blend from 20 yo vines in the cool heights of Spain’s Castilla La Mancha at an insane $10 at WineStar! Zesty preserved lemon, crunchy pear, lively honeydew with a long finish and a masterful tough of phenolic grip.

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Party time! Stumpy is one of the most multitalented wines to pull at a BBQ or lob into your tent or kayak because GSM goes with virtually everything, anywhere! It tastes like Redskins and redcurrants, with just the right level of mixed spice and fine-ground structure to keep the party under control. $9.50 @ Dan’s.

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