A beautifully expressive blanc de blancs that contrasts the intensity and affable character of Montagne de Reims chardonnay with a refined lift that I have not previously seen in this cuvee. Fragrant lemon and pear notes sit over a core of starfruit and spice, stirred by a touch of oak barrel fermentation, without interrupting excellent […]

read

All the joy and exuberance of 100% meunier in red cherry and plums of rounded ripeness, beautifully invigorated by the energy and tension of 2008. Five years on lees has infused a full straw hue and drawn out subtle ginger nut biscuit and mixed spice character and a fine, creamy bead, culminating in a delightful […]

read

A fruity and distinctive rosé of medium crimson hue and pomegranate, pink pepper and red apple impact, surrounding a red cherry core, structured with fine-grained tannin texture that builds mouthfeel. In the more overt, structured rosé style, this is a cuvée that finds balance of bright presence and even fruit persistence. Dosage and acidity enjoy […]

read

A rich and fleshy blanc de noirs of medium straw hue, 50% meunier from the sandy soils of the village of Gueux blended with 50% pinot noir. It reflects the generosity of 2006 in a deep well of fleshy stone fruits, dried fruits and citrus rind. A persistent, spicy finish and soft, creamy bead show […]

read

On the outer realms of champagne concentration, this is a celebration of the voluptuous curves of Aÿ pinot noir (predominantly), in all of its luscious, juicy richness. Plums, figs, red cherries, golden fruit cake, ginger cake, honey and grilled pineapple, even a hint of sweet pipesmoke of bottle age are all here, carrying with outstanding […]

read

There is a fresh mineral purity to the soil and the air at The Lane Vineyard, high in the Adelaide Hills, and the top shelf chardonnay of the estate captures it with precision. Notes of barrel fermentation charcuterie unite with subtle gunpowder reduction to drive a fruit profile of deep white peach, fig and grapefruit. […]

read

In the quarter-century over which these 1894 planted vines have been bottled as Command, 2010 will go down among the greats. True to its name, this vintage makes for a commanding Barossa Shiraz of impenetrable layers of red and black fruits, spice, dark chocolate and red liquorice becoming faintly gamey. It upholds exacting balance for […]

read

There’s an understated, tightly coiled potential to 2013 Clonakilla Syrah, definitively medium-bodied in its stature, with an enduring longevity as protracted as any from this legendary estate. Texturally it’s a revelation, superfine yet confident and strong, promising many years of marvellous development. Impeccably refined and elegant, it’s an exquisitely focused syrah of exact white pepper […]

read

Oaktavius’ no more, this label is the happy benefactor of a regime of restraint, no longer all about full-bodied Barossa shiraz in tiny barrels, now much more sophisticated and articulate in its fruit expression and style. Magnificent layers of deep-set black plums, black cherries, mixed spice, black jubes and aniseed are laced together with fine, […]

read

The warm 2012 season in Great Southern and Margaret River has built an Abercrombie of impressive black fruit depth, yet retaining the control and determination to see out a very long life. A beautifully focused, exquisite bouquet of blackcurrant, cassis, black cherries, cedar and tobacco announces a generous yet compact palate, with a focused and […]

read