From the cool heights of Skillogalee’s fantastic site in the Clare, this is a gewürztraminer of texture and complexity, refreshingly reserved and contemplative. Lovely lychee and rosewater purity culminates in a long finish of subtle grapefruit and white nectarine character. The texture is fine and well gauged, with carefully placed, soft phenolic character and fine, […]

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Geoff Hardy is playing with all kinds of Italian, French and Spanish varieties across South Australia and this is one of the best. The heat and drought resistance of Graciano make sense in Langhorne Creek, particularly when it can make wines of such lifted fragrance, luminescent purple hue and fresh black plum, black cherry and […]

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In the right hands, tempranillo has a wonderful hallmark of retaining acid drive and fresh restraint, even in warm regions, and this is why we are going to see a lot more of this variety in Australia in years to come. With alluring character of black cherry and violet perfume, Manners has conjured a beautifully […]

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Steve Webber foresees that the warm and aromatic 2013 season may ultimately be more highly regarded than 2012 at the pointy end of Yarra Valley pinot. His Estate blend of five mature vineyards is a compelling start. Twenty percent whole bunches in the blend emphasise alluring complexity of violet fragrance, while a core of deep […]

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The tangy elegance of Great Southern makes its graceful mark, even in the generous Gin Gin clone in the warm, early 2013 season. The result is a beautifully balanced chardonnay, expressing the intensity of this clone, while upholding a fragrant delicacy of almond blossom and a refreshing tang of tightly defined acidity. Cashew nut French […]

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There is an understated elegance, a subtle perfume and an effortless persistence to this vintage, yet wrapped into its folds are beautifully defined blackberry, blueberry and black plum fruits. Tannins are finely textured, drawing out a long and even finish. A great vintage for Skillogalee Shiraz, gentle, comfortably poised and ready to drink. $26 at […]

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This is the first time I’ve seen this blend of three Yarra vineyards, and I’m impressed with its poise, fragrance and refreshing price. A core of red cherry fruit and rose petal aromas denote a gentle and silky style of finely structured tannins, carrying the finish long and even. $32 at Rathdowne Cellars.

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John Brown was the first Australian winemaker to recognise Noble Rot in 1934 and his descendents still make one of the best expressions in the country. A maelstrom of complexity of peach, fig, honey, persimmon, marmalade, passionfruit and mixed spice over a pure and well-focused core of lemon zest defines a sticky of lively elegance […]

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A standout among warm region chardonnays, with a pretty, lifted fragrance of almond blossom, red apple and pink grapefruit. The palate leads out crunchy and citrus-infused, and finishes structural and chewy, with grapefruit pith-like mouth feel, a squeeze of lemon acidity and almost ripe fig notes. Best price direct.

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Rosé of such grace and refinement is a rare thing, a fitting tribute to arguably Australia’s finest three sparkling zones: maritime Tasmania, the cool reaches of the Upper Yarra Valley and the high altitude Whitlands Plateau. In the months since its first unveiling it has blossomed magnificently into a pretty, pale, elegant and delicate rosé […]

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