Andrew Wigan likens 2009 to 1999: An underrated, unnoticed vintage, sandwiched between two great years. The effect is exacerbated by the sheer magnificence of 2010. 2009’s claim to fame is the first inclusion of Eden Valley fruit in Stonewell, contributing brightness and life. The Stonewell oak regime has been progressively downplayed for decades, and even […]
readAn elegant lunchtime pinot, blended from East Coast and Lower Tamar Valley vineyards. It’s a fresh and lively young thing, accented with pink pepper and beetroot character, underlined by tangy morello cherry notes. It’s elegant, precocious and varietal, backed by finely textured tannins and more than respectable length. $16 at Dan Murphy’s.
readA new label from Tassie’s rising star, Nick Glaetzer. “I’ve always been a fan of Beaujolais Nouveau, and this year I ran out of 2012 before the 2013 came on, so this was a great way to fill the gap,” he told me when I visited recently. It’s more than just a stopgap wine, an […]
readSteve Lubiana is upping the ante with his second label pinot noir. Once made in stainless steel, it’s now fully matured in barriques. The fruit is on the rise, too, sourced from estate vines of 10 and 14 years of age and supplemented with purchased fruit. Black cherry, strawberry and plum are the themes, with […]
readPraxis is Moorilla’s modern, fruit-focused, early drinking range and its recently released pinot noir meets the brief precisely. It’s elegant and pretty, with a core of tangy red cherries, ripe strawberries and rose petal fragrance. A finely textured tannin structure is seamlessly integrated, making it ready to go right away. $27 at Trio Wine.
readIn a long line of Tasmanian pinots, Pooley stands out in its class for its carry through the finish, sustaining fruit integrity without deteriorating into a callow close of acidity and tannin. Sourced predominantly from the Coal River Valley, it’s layered with black cherry and redcurrant fruit and hints of white pepper, carrying with considerable […]
readOn a graceful slope with sweeping views of Marion Bay in Tasmania’s south-east, Cape Bernier’s pinot vines captures the notes of savoury herbs and spice that characterise this tranquil part of the world. A purity of red cherry and fresh strawberry fruit is accented with rose hip and finely textured tannins, finishing elegantly harmonious. Best […]
readIf you adore Freycinet Pinot Noir, as I do, there’s a good case for stocking up on both the real thing and the second label. Louis is alluring, immediate and gorgeous, purposely a more fruit-driven style and ready to drink right away. From a vineyard just 300m down the hill from the estate’s fabled amphitheatre […]
readTasmania is Robert Hill-Smith’s latest passion, and it’s difficult to say whether the enthusiasm of his talented team is the result of the rise and rise of Dalrymple, or the other way around. Either way, the entry pinot of the estate is one of the most elegantly alluring on the shelves under $25 right now […]
readAn impressive blend of two-thirds Coal River Valley and one-third Tinderbox (overlooking Bruny Island), this vintage spent 18 months in French oak (almost double the time of the vintages before it). The result is wonderfully exotic, laced with mixed spice, Christmas cake, orange liqueur and morello cherries. It pulls off such complexity without a hint […]
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