Dr H Thanisch Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Spätlese

The Doctor is the legendary epicentre of viticulture on the steep slopes behind the village of Berncasteler. The 2010 Spätlese is a highlight of Thanisch for its captivating tightwalk between succulent, generous baked apple and preserved lemon fruit and its taut acidity and slatey structure. It pulls off this stunt effortlessly, set off with the […]

Yabby Lake Vineyard Mornington Peninsula Single Vineyard Pinot Noir

A rising mood of effortless, seamless purity characterises Yabby Lake Pinot Noir and seems to intensify with the passing of the seasons. 2012 is a crescendo in this evolution, an outstanding vintage of impeccable focus and enduring persistence. It’s spotlessly appointed with pristine red fruits and rose hip, underlined by intricately crafted and finely textured […]

Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon

When this wine landed, I sent out the word to friends who were married or gave birth in 2011. This is the wine for 21st birthdays and silver wedding anniversaries. For the warmest vintage in a decade in Margaret River, it retains impeccably vibrancy and unwavering poise amidst considerable power and solid, generous concentration. Firm, […]

Thousand Candles

I liked Thousand Candle’s controversial inaugural 2011 on release, I like it more today, and I like its successor more again. All the exoticism of 2011 has returned for an encore in 2012, set in a much more familiar frame of Yarra Valley pinot noir (70%), with shiraz playing a support role (25%) and again […]

Arrivo Nebbiolo Lunga Macerazione

Eight years of viticultural and winemaking trials certainly paid off prior to the first Arrivo release in 2004, with a standard of great consistency established since – no small feat for a single, young vineyard high in the Adelaide Hills. “Lunga macerazione” is “long maceration”, 72 days on skins here, which maker Peter Godden suspects […]

Campbells Isabella Rare Rutherglen Topaque 375mL

At more than twenty years of average age, the potent intensity, dense viscosity and monumental complexity of Campbells’ Rare Topaque are a given, but what sets it apart from almost all others at this level is that it achieves all this with remarkable integration and balance. Sweetness, acidity and intensity are all here in full […]

Antinori Solaia IGT

The Antinori family has been in the wine business since 1385 and launched one of the very first Super Tuscans, Tignanello, in 1971. Buoyed by its success, the single vineyard, 80% cabernet sauvignon blend of Solaia landed in 1978 and quickly found its place among the greats of this region. Originally a blend with cabernet […]

Henschke Hill of Grace

The inimitable signatures of the ‘grandfather’ vines of Hill of Grace are a fine-laced, textural structure and ethereal nuances of exotic spice. Even the heat of the 2008 season has not dispelled either, making way for a Hill of Grace of balance, poise and outstanding persistence. The season has made for a powerful, deep and […]

Philipponnat Royale Réserve Brut

It seems preposterous that my favourite Philipponnat cuvée this year should be its bargain-priced entry wine, but such is the refreshing balance of 2008 acidity that it pulls the ripe style of the house into a wonderful place of fine-tuned balance that even its current prestige cuvées fail to emulate. The generosity of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ pinot […]