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Treasury Wine Estate’s philosophy of inflating Michael’s price alongside John Riddoch is daring. As distinguished as Michael may be, he’s consistently outclassed by his sibling, making a 67% price rise over two years look like too much to pay. The 2010 is a complex and savoury style, taking quite some time for black plum, dark […]

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The dry grown, 1985 planted Messenger vineyard at the southern end of Coonawarra’s terra rossa strip performs well in warmer seasons, and this is the second time it’s flown solo at Wynns. An exciting and long-lived release, this is a juxtaposition of glossy, warm succulence and high-tensile structure. Lifted violet aromatics are a prelude to […]

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2010 is one of the great John Riddochs. It’s sustained a significant price rise, from $90 two years ago and $130 last year to $150 this year – and it’s worth every cent. At a refreshing 13.5% alcohol, this is a classic Coonawarra cabernet of understated power, tense definition and impeccable class. It’s breathtakingly pure […]

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This week Woolworths announced profit rises of 24% off the back of its growing supermarket, liquor store and fuel empire. Estimates suggest that Dan Murphys and BWS stores now sell something approaching 50% of packaged wine in Australia. Yesterday I was privileged to an insight into Woolworths liquor during a day tasting a selection of […]

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The bargain highlight of my recent visit to Hilltops, two hours north of Canberra. There is an alluring, refreshing elegance to this vibrant shiraz, built around black plum skin and dark cherry fruit laced with exotic savoury spice and pepper. It captures the cool restraint of a wet season high in the Hilltops in its […]

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An understated rosé of pretty pale salmon-copper hue, alluring restraint, savoury character and lingering persistence. Notes of tomato and watermelon are underlined by finely textured mouth feel and lively high altitude acidity. A well-crafted and food-friendly style. $20 at Oak Barrel and Wine Odyssey.

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I was privileged to judge the wine of the year in Hilltops this week and I surprised even myself by choosing not a shiraz but a cabernet – and a brand new wine not yet released, for that matter. I had no idea of the price at the time, and expected it to be at […]

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Another bargain from Moppity, the highest vineyard in Hilltops, boasting vines over 40 years of age. The beautifully cool 2012 vintage has nurtured restrained shiraz with alluring nuances of black pepper, black plum skin and liquorice, underscored by excellent firm, fine tannins and taut, lively acidity. A wine of outstanding persistence and impressive mouth feel. […]

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From some of the Hilltops’ oldest vines, this is a shiraz of beautifully textured mouth feel of finely structured tannins, laced with subtle reductive complexity. It’s savoury, understated and immensely spicy, alive with fragrant white pepper, impressive persistence and lingering cool climate restraint. $21 at Cloudwine

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Despite the difficulties of the wet 2012 season in Hilltops, this is one of my favourite vintages of Grove Estate, a wine of impressive persistence, fine-boned structure and exotic allure. An intricately peppery and spicy style of lifted violet perfume and a subtle hint of game, capturing the lively cool climate of the season and […]

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