As Mt Difficulty’s vines plunge their roots ever deeper into the parched moonscape that it Bannockburn, its single vineyard wines build confidence and effortless integration. Beautiful violet perfume and focused black cherry fruit are accented by the subtle exotic overtones of one-third whole bunch fermentation. Tannin framework is both enduringly structured and simultaneously fine and […]

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Wantirna is one of the great cabernets of Victoria, irresistible in its youth, and it will only improve. Breathtakingly floral, with pristine violet and rose petal lift over impeccable cabernet definition of red- and blackcurrants, capsicum, tobacco leaf and cedar. The palate is ultra-fine and superbly refined, built around pristine red fruits and lingering rose […]

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Celebrating its 30th birthday last year, Noble One holds its position among benchmark Australian botrytis semillon, and the 2009 release is outstanding. Its bright, golden honey hue announces glorious aromas of cumquat marmalade, apricot jam and vanilla, with just a hint of savoury reduction. The palate is unctuous, with toffee, crème brûlée and apricot jam, […]

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Pegasus Bay builds pinot noir of proper structure and longevity of international standards. Berry cherry fruits are impeccable, not unusual for New Zealand, but its a beautifully defined mineral tannin structure that really sets it apart. Forty percent new French oak amplifies its mouthfeel and guarantees to sustain it very long. $50 at WineStar and […]

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Celebrating its 50th anniversary this year, the legendary vineyard of Lake’s Folly is an oasis of exceptional cabernet (and friends) in a region of shiraz and semillon. 2011 is one of its great expressions, leaping out of the glass with a beautiful bouquet of lifted violets, dark berry compote and liquorice. The palate melds deep […]

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Chris Pfeiffer commenced his apera 28 years ago when he first began in Rutherglen, back when the style could still be called sherry. Today it boasts an average age of 25 years, infusing a golden honey hue and aromas of walnut and burnt butter. The palate is balanced, persistent and intense, retaining the freshness of […]

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In the Rutherglen hierarchy, the biggest leap in colour, viscosity and power comes in ascending from Classic to Grand, and Morris Tokay exemplifies this by almost doubling the average age to fifteen years. The complexity that has built over this time is beguiling, layered with great intensity of fig paste, fruitcake, marmalade, dark chocolate and […]

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Big and black, just like its label, this is a Central pinot of full, vibrant purple hue and well-composed balance, offering unusual value for money for this part of the world. Its bouquet is adorned with expressive and intense aromas of dried flowers, spice, violets and black fruits of all kinds. The palate continues the […]

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Another star in the lineage of Xanadu, this is a cabernet sauvignon intricately tweaked with each of the other four Bordeaux varieties in tiny quantities of never more than 5%. It’s an impressive accord, building an intense blackberry, blackcurrant and black jube profile that contrasts with crunchy redcurrants and dark chocolate French oak. Finely textured […]

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The fleshy personality of ten-year-old vines rooted in clay soils makes for an endearing expression in the second label pinot of one of Martinborough’s top players. It’s persistent and fruit-focused, with black fruit expression and high cocoa dark chocolate notes. Lovely fine tannins and excellent poise carry through a long and fruit-accented finish. $28 at […]

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