A refreshing new take on Grey Label’s thumping proportions, thanks to the toning influence of both the Limestone Coast and a touch of cabernet. Majority Robe fruit (next door to Coonawarra), lending a softening touch of red berries and spice to its characteristic deep, brooding, gamey stature.
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There’s now a twist to one of Australia’s most reliable sweet rieslings, with the cool 11 season lending a spicier and more peppery edge than ever. There’s a hint of greengage plum and preserved lemon to its familiar fleshy peach, fig and pear fruit and unctuous, honeyed finish. Enticingly atypical.
readGreat value in the hierarchy of Hunter shiraz, loaded with the kind of fruit concentration and precision usually reserved for its seniors. Layered with black pepper and plum, supported by finely structured tannins and a plum skin texture, with a lingering finish of persistent black cherry fruit.
readNo short sprinter, this is a marathon runner that always stands out for its searingly structured acidity and fruit profile to go the distance. Beautifully clean and precise, it’s accented with lemon and lime, this year with a touch of red apple richness that gives it some immediacy, but it’s in no hurry.
readBest’s is on such a roll that it’s entry cabernet has just lapped its shiraz! An unashamedly restrained, honed, coiled-up and structured cabernet, in the traditional, savoury style, the kind that gets overlooked in wine shows until I bang a gold medal score on it! Give it time to grow into something special.
readIt’s far too early to make calls on the bargain riesling of the vintage but, sheesh, it’ll take a mighty wine to topple this one! Gorgeously pristine linden blossom and lemon fruit, pure, seamless, fine, shot with chalky minerality and epic persistence. We’ll look back on it for decades as a great Skilly.
readIt’s at the entry prices that riesling has wavered in this challenging season but again Knappstein pulls through with a beautifully exact expression of lemon, lime and granny smith apples. It’s clean, taut, driving and persistent, reflecting this cooler season with a cut that will reward the patient.
readThis label is the bargain cellaring special of the decade. I still have 05s in my cellar and they’re not ready yet. The brand new release is as coiled-up, restrained and structured as any young MPWAHCS I’ve tasted, screaming out for a decade to reveal the class of characteristic, cool cabernet.
readA generous nebbiolo that’s ready to go, holding 14.5% alcohol confidently, thanks to acidity that keeps it lively, never deviating from medium-bodied aspirations. All the usual suspects of liquorice, black plum, rose petal and anise fruit are here, while velvety, silky tannins keep it honed on the end.
readL-B is one of the most fanatical organic growers in Vertus. The chardonnay-predominant Tradition blend captures the succulent, rounded fruit of the village, contrasting with linear minerality and taut citrus backbone. Assembled with signature Larmandier precision. $75 at WineStar, $76 at Dan’s.
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