Best’s is on such a roll that it’s entry cabernet has just lapped its shiraz! An unashamedly restrained, honed, coiled-up and structured cabernet, in the traditional, savoury style, the kind that gets overlooked in wine shows until I bang a gold medal score on it! Give it time to grow into something special.
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It’s far too early to make calls on the bargain riesling of the vintage but, sheesh, it’ll take a mighty wine to topple this one! Gorgeously pristine linden blossom and lemon fruit, pure, seamless, fine, shot with chalky minerality and epic persistence. We’ll look back on it for decades as a great Skilly.
readIt’s at the entry prices that riesling has wavered in this challenging season but again Knappstein pulls through with a beautifully exact expression of lemon, lime and granny smith apples. It’s clean, taut, driving and persistent, reflecting this cooler season with a cut that will reward the patient.
readThis label is the bargain cellaring special of the decade. I still have 05s in my cellar and they’re not ready yet. The brand new release is as coiled-up, restrained and structured as any young MPWAHCS I’ve tasted, screaming out for a decade to reveal the class of characteristic, cool cabernet.
readA generous nebbiolo that’s ready to go, holding 14.5% alcohol confidently, thanks to acidity that keeps it lively, never deviating from medium-bodied aspirations. All the usual suspects of liquorice, black plum, rose petal and anise fruit are here, while velvety, silky tannins keep it honed on the end.
readL-B is one of the most fanatical organic growers in Vertus. The chardonnay-predominant Tradition blend captures the succulent, rounded fruit of the village, contrasting with linear minerality and taut citrus backbone. Assembled with signature Larmandier precision. $75 at WineStar, $76 at Dan’s.
readWith vines celebrating their 30th birthday, Freycinet’s picturesque vineyard is one of Tassie’s finest. Its purity and personality are intoxicating in 09, alive with white pepper, rose petal, violet and black cherry, fruit laced together with firm, fine, silky tannins & vibrant, southern acidity. $58 at Dan’s.
readA Marlborough chardonnay of outstanding definition and taut, honed acid backbone – now that’s something we don’t see often enough! Great concentration of nectarine, white peach, lemon zest and grapefruit, with complexing hints of figs and charcuterie. $29 at Dan’s, $30 at WineStar.
readIs this the finest CHMVCS yet? My word it is! Winemaker rockstar Michael Fragos has a soft spot for the noble grape and his greatest hit has just topped the charts. More floral, vibrant, poised, pure and structured than ever. Epic longevity. Coonawarra and Margaret River, look out! $25 at WineStar.
readBrilliantly crafted blend from an estate now perched on a very high branch of the lofty MR tree. Fruit from the cooler south of the region and a touch of barrel infuse remarkable restraint and calm, effortless, gliding persistence. Stunning value at $20 at WineStar, $21 at Dan’s, $22 at Vintage Cellars.
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