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A remarkable old Tumbarumba sparkling that astonished me when I first tasted it at the Australian Sparkling Wine Show two years ago, and remains every bit as impressive today. It’s surprising pale and bright at 13 years of age, and has attained a place where the buttery silkiness and roast nut character of bottle age […]

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Achieving colour, depth and intensity while retaining finesse and softness in sparkling shiraz is no easy balancing act, and Hentley Farm has nailed it here. It’s at once luscious and deep in its black fruit and liquorice profile and at the same time creamy in its fine bead and silky in its fine-grained tannin structure, […]

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Crafting elegant, long-aged vintage rosé is one of the higher skills of master sparkling craftsmanship, and René Bezemer has got it spot on it in this decade-old cuvée. With a pretty, very pale salmon hue, it’s a subtle expression of Tasmanian pinot noir, elegant and sophisticated, with a decade of maturity gently drawing spicy, secondary […]

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After a full decade of maturity, including seven years on lees, Arras Grand Vintage has attained that wonderful place where the exotic, savoury, olive and smoky nuances of tertiary maturity meet the toasty, buttery smoothness of secondary development, while still upholding the primary citrus crunch of youthful chardonnay (a little more than two-thirds of the […]

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This cuvée upholds the elegance and endurance of Tasmanian chardonnay in its subtle yellow stone fruit and white citrus definition, while overlaying it with considerable layers of secondary and tertiary character and silky, buttery mouth feel. Beautifully poised and carefully crafted, this is a magnificent vintage with five years of life before it yet. $57 […]

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This is a rich and concentrated release for Alkoomi, a wine packed with expressive dark berry/cherry/plum fruit, dark chocolate oak and supportive, fine-grained tannins. It has the structure, density and persistence to improve for the medium-term. $20 at Wine Style.

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The great Australian blend is relatively rare in Margaret River, but this example demonstrates what is possible at the riper end of the scale. Cabernet blackcurrant fruits take the lead (60%) backed by the blackberry fruit of shiraz and dark chocolate French oak. It holds its brightness and confidence, with finely structured tannins carrying a […]

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In the cooler temperatures and extended ripening of the southwest of Margaret River, intense flavours are achieved and acidity is retained. In the warm 2012 season, the result is a South by Southwest of a magnitude that lands it much further north than its bargain price might suggest. A vibrant, medium purple wine with a […]

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A Wilyabrup cabernet of drive and definition, with excellent intensity of crunchy, intense blackcurrant and capsicum fruit. Excellent length of long and even fruit persistence, supported by fine-ground tannins that promise medium-term potential. Great value at $20 at Deals Direct, No Frills, ANZ Wines, Wine List Australia and Grays Online.

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In a generous season, this is a cabernet blend that stands out for its classical restraint, medium-bodied assurance and effortless potential. Crunchy redcurrant and blackcurrant fruit meets notes of capsicum and a subtle suggestion of tomato, beautifully and impeccably ripe at just 13.8% alcohol. Firm, finely textured tannins and a long finish underlined by well […]

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