Is this the best sub-$20 pinot of the moment? Yes. Just don’t drink it yet. Its hue is impressively lively, a vibrant, medium purple-red. Pristine purity of red berry and red cherry fruit of cool, high, Upper Yarra elegance is charged with an energising line of lively acidity and a finely textured backbone of well-crafted […]

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Hoddles Creek overlays zesty, cool, high Upper Yarra chardonnay with layers of leesy, charcuterie barrel ferment complexity. The result looks a lot more sophisticated than its price lets on: structured, textural, tense and persistent, loaded with plenty of potential in the cellar. $18 at Edinburgh Cellars.

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Penfolds’ longstanding tradition of March “Bin Series” and May “Icon and Luxury Collection” releases has been rolled into a single October 16 launch of “The Penfolds Collection”. It certainly seems prudent to move the date well away from South Australian vintage, not least for Peter Gago’s preservation, and we won’t miss the “Icon and Luxury” […]

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2010 holds a privileged position in the 60 year lineage of Penfolds Grange. In the context of recent tastings of many of the greatest vintages, 2010 attains new heights in its depth of black fruit presence and its structural assuredness. I adore 2008 Grange and, tasting them together, 2010 is even deeper and more vibrant, […]

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Classic, inimitable, signature 707: blockbuster and towering, yet focused and controlled, packed with all manner of density and exacting varietal definition of black- and redcurrants, cassis, cedar, tobacco and violets, even a hint of mint, over a solid core of dark chocolate American oak. Density is impenetrable, intricately riveted together without a hairline gap between […]

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Predictably coiled and reticent at this young age, quite flattering for this succulent and sumptuous release. Juicy blueberry and blackberry fruit, cherry liqueur and fresh liquorice straps assemble over layers of dark chocolate. Its glossy appeal lingers very long on a finish of great concentration and confident poise, underscored by fine, supple and supportive tannins. […]

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Yattarna’s trajectory toward graceful refinement has hit new heights of laser line, crystalline structure and pristine grace in 2012. Gorgeous fragrance of grapefruit blossom, white peach and lemon, projecting a delicacy and grace particularly noteworthy for Yattarna. The palate is impeccably fine and elegant, with delicately placed layers of fragrant white fruits positioned on a […]

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The 30th consecutive release represents one of the great vintages for Magill. Swirling with blue and black fruits, mixed spice, liquorice and high cocoa dark chocolate, this is a powerful and deeply concentrated expression of the inimitable personality of this vineyard in the Adelaide suburbs. There is a succulence and a glossy polish to this […]

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All the multifaceted complexity and pristine character that we adore in Bin A: struck flint, gunpowder and bacon fat, hovering confidently over a breathtaking core of white peach, fig, and impeccable precision of cut lemon and grapefruit. To present such complexity and presence while upholding exacting definition, undeviating line, monumental persistence and fine, chalk mineral […]

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A stark contrast to the mesmerising 2010, this is a savoury, gamey St Henri of dry, herbal character, skeletal and bony, lacking in depth, mid-palate presence and connectedness. Tannins are angular and firm and the finish falls away abruptly. In its credit, colour is impressively full and vibrant, and some black fruits began to emerge […]

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