Steve Webber foresees that the warm and aromatic 2013 season may ultimately be more highly regarded than 2012 at the pointy end of Yarra Valley pinot. His Estate blend of five mature vineyards is a compelling start. Twenty percent whole bunches in the blend emphasise alluring complexity of violet fragrance, while a core of deep […]

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There is an understated elegance, a subtle perfume and an effortless persistence to this vintage, yet wrapped into its folds are beautifully defined blackberry, blueberry and black plum fruits. Tannins are finely textured, drawing out a long and even finish. A great vintage for Skillogalee Shiraz, gentle, comfortably poised and ready to drink. $26 at […]

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The tangy elegance of Great Southern makes its graceful mark, even in the generous Gin Gin clone in the warm, early 2013 season. The result is a beautifully balanced chardonnay, expressing the intensity of this clone, while upholding a fragrant delicacy of almond blossom and a refreshing tang of tightly defined acidity. Cashew nut French […]

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This is the first time I’ve seen this blend of three Yarra vineyards, and I’m impressed with its poise, fragrance and refreshing price. A core of red cherry fruit and rose petal aromas denote a gentle and silky style of finely structured tannins, carrying the finish long and even. $32 at Rathdowne Cellars.

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A standout among warm region chardonnays, with a pretty, lifted fragrance of almond blossom, red apple and pink grapefruit. The palate leads out crunchy and citrus-infused, and finishes structural and chewy, with grapefruit pith-like mouth feel, a squeeze of lemon acidity and almost ripe fig notes. Best price direct.

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John Brown was the first Australian winemaker to recognise Noble Rot in 1934 and his descendents still make one of the best expressions in the country. A maelstrom of complexity of peach, fig, honey, persimmon, marmalade, passionfruit and mixed spice over a pure and well-focused core of lemon zest defines a sticky of lively elegance […]

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Rosé of such grace and refinement is a rare thing, a fitting tribute to arguably Australia’s finest three sparkling zones: maritime Tasmania, the cool reaches of the Upper Yarra Valley and the high altitude Whitlands Plateau. In the months since its first unveiling it has blossomed magnificently into a pretty, pale, elegant and delicate rosé […]

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Brown Brothers has sold its historic Whitlands vineyard to Domaine Chandon, to instead focus sparkling production in Tasmania. There’s no question Tassie is the most exciting frontier for fine fizz in the country, but Whitlands has made some of the best sparkling wines on the mainland, and this is the last from Brown Brothers. It’s […]

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Albert has never been more polished and dignified, a wine of stature and depth, yet upholding impeccable poise and control. The fruit definition and density paraded here are something to behold, with depth and concentration of black plum and blackberry fruit, underlined by high cocoa dark chocolate and liquorice, lifted by a fragrant violet delicacy. […]

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Distinguished, coiled and driven, this is a blend of impeccable structure, fragrant finesse and enduring longevity. It’s restrained, gently and alluringly floral, with rose hip notes and wonderful purity of blackcurrant and blackberry fruit and pepper of focused purity. Fine chalk mineral tannin texture is particularly pronounced in V&A Lane, a signature of this part […]

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