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In concentration, complexity, texture, exotic perfume and sheer exuberant joy, Gulfy performs like a true estate Yarra Valley shiraz, not like a second label that’s perpetually $15 at WineStar and Kemeny’s. The De Bortoli shiraz vintage of the decade has elevated its baby to a majestic place.

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Scribbler groupies (hello there!) will immediately recognise that this is a more elegant, structured and restrained rendition of one of the best value reds in the world. It’s more crunchy and vibrant than ever, with cabernet in the lead. Monumentally age-worthy. Patience. $14 at Dan’s, $15 at WineStar.

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Steve Webber and Sarah Fagan splashed around twenty posh bottles of Chianti, Bolgheri and Brunello for inspiration when creating this brand new, rustic blend. The result meets the brief: textured, fine-boned, savoury, unashamedly approachable and yet structured and food-ready.

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Hordes of people at my wine courses are rediscovering chardonnay because, in their words, it doesn’t taste like chardonnay. At least not like the flabby abominations that turned them off! With a high proportion of cool, Upper Yarra fruit, this mineral, textured style is converting them back. $20 at 1st.

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Margaret River SBS has come of age, shrugging off her girly giggles and slipping into something much more sophisticated. A touch of barrel work (just a small percentage here) adds texture and seamlessness to tightly restrained grapefruit, lemon and guava flavours. Jaw-dropping. $19 at 1st Choice.

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Sweet rieslings are the undiscovered gems of the apple isle. Not any more! This is a versatile dessert wine because it hasn’t been ripened until it turns to jam! This makes it fresher and more tangy than most botrytis styles, full of crunchy apple and zesty citrus fruit, perfect with fruit-based desserts.

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Footloose and oak-free, such feisty expression is a tough find at this price. A grenache syrah cinsault blend from Coteaux du Tricastin (the northernmost appellation of France’s southern Rhône), laced with pepper and spice, crunchy black plums, dark berries, finely textured tannins and tangy acidity.

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At under $10 a crack ($8.45 at Dan’s and $10 at 1st this week) there’s no chardonnay anywhere on planet earth that comes close! Learning from the wizardry of four De B chardonnays above it, Windy is an elegant, mineral-driven style with purity of white peach, lemon zest and even a touch of lees complexity.

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This Portuguese-inspired rosé crashed into my world on a picnic bench in the middle of a vineyard in Orange. Next time you’re feeling international on a picnic bench, here’s your companion! Gorgeous delicacy of strawberries & cream, lightly textural, subtly sweet; a multitalented crowd-thriller!

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This is no mere village white Burg, it’s the creation of one of the world’s finest chardonnay craftsmen in the most mineral-charged, long-lived vintage in a decade. 2007 has just landed but get in quick. You think you can catch Keyser Sauzet? My guess is you’ll never hear from him again. Try WineStar.

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